Easy climb. No big deal. Just climb up this 5.9, work on a bit of technique, body coordination, proprioception, and we’re all good. Tyler gets to practice his lead belay…
[3rd draw clipped, going for 4th draw]
*literally hands are getting clammy as I type this*
[left hand on big jug]
Feet are good, 3 points of contact, left hand on jug.
I can feel the grit of the plastic hold sink into my fingers.
I can feel the chalk on my hands.
My body gets ready to lock my arm off.
My fingers sink into the hold.
My arm is straight and barely flexed enough to not have my arm put any stress on my shoulder.
I isolate that tension into my fingers.
I do my best to relax everything else.
I’m locked off.
Slowly, I reach for my rope starting at the knot of my harness.
The rope runs through the palm of my hand over my thumb and in between my index.
I slightly pull on the hold.
I exhale…
…and go to clip into the 4th draw
[left hand hold snaps off clean]
I felt like I paused in mid air.
What was probably less than half of a second, I realized what had happened.
That half second slowed down to what felt like 1 second (which is a lot when you’re falling).
Whatever-part-of-my-brain took over and I let go.
Whether I mean or feel like that was figuratively or literally, I don’t know.
Training took over.
Muscle memory took over.
It was as if I let go myself.
I kept the exhale and accepted the fall.
I waited for the belay…
At literally the very last second or half second or nanoseconds, I felt the rope tighten.
Literally nanoseconds after my toes it the deck.
Naturally I began to roll back as training from mixed martial arts kicked in.
The very tips of my toes hit the mat more than less of a half second after I felt tension in the rope.
My body was already getting ready for a squatting position.
As the rest of my foot began to come in contact with the ground.
My body was already transferring that kinetic energy down to my ankles, my calves, my hamstrings, to my glutes…
I was in a full squat.
I felt the energy dissipate as my ass touched the ground.
I felt my chalk bag under me as I rolled onto my back.
It felt like I had just stood up and rolled back.
Actually lighter…
A puff of chalk was on the mat.
I fell about 40 maybe 50 feet. It was a 3.5 to 4 draw fall. Every draw is very roughly I’d say a 7-10 foot drop.
I got up, heart rate normal, exhaled, turned to Tyler and smiled.
“Well, that was a gnarly fall…”
As I looked up I saw the broken hold with the bolt in the wall.
I looked down at the ground at the triangular orange hold.
I picked it up and examined the back.
The hold snapped off clean.
I honestly forgot who asked me first, because in reality I kinda still wasn’t there. I was there, but not there. I felt stuck in the moment right before I felt the belay. I felt stuck in the moment right before my feet or toes rather, touched the ground. Maybe that’s why I wasn’t panicked? I’m not sure. That’s just what I did. It just felt like any other fall, except this one wasn’t intentional or warranted LOL.
I went to the front desk, explaining to them I broke a hold off. Maybe…possibly fell from 3 draws (when it was pretty much 4). One of them laughed thinking it was sarcasm. Then realized I wasn’t joking. As his expression changed, I reassured him. I went back to the wall and intended to finish the easiest lead climb in the entire fucking gym. It was a practice route. It was a 5.9.
I finished it, but the reason why I did was because I knew well enough that if I hadn’t, my subconscious would never let it down. Even when I went to redo the climb, I felt a slight hesitation. I did another one after that and I was still good. Needless to say, the event was…I wouldn’t say traumatic, but was a shocker enough to shake Tyler up on his climb. I told him to either take a break or call it a night. Especially when you go to climb and call a “take” instead of “clipping”. Yeah Tyler, you’re mentally done. Climbing is more of a mental game than physical. I find that now being less of an amateur, it’s more about the mental break than a physical and/or anatomical break. You’re inside your head and you’re mentally tired.
Well. That was my night in a nutshell. The best part is I had just gotten to the rock climbing bit in The Rise of Superman by Steven Kotler…hahahaha. Oh man.
What’s even more interesting is the other after affects that I noticed while I was driving home and felt even stronger when I was throwing my fruits and veggies into the blender. What if Renae flakes on me? Why hasn’t Amber texted back (brushes it off, she’s an RA that has a deadline on Wednesday, it’s cool) ? They’re both busy, that’s not in my control. The hold snapping on me wasn’t in my control. What can you actually do at that point? The hold snaps and you’re free falling hoping your belayer will stop your fall before you deck out.
For the record the thought of me breaking my legs never crossed my mind. I just accepted the fall and…fell. Just like any other fall that I took intentionally or saw coming.
What if Renae doesn’t show up? What if she flakes? What if Amber doesn’t want to hang out again? What if next week won’t work and I get back from Mt. Rushmore and she gets bored and the fire dies out? What if it doesn’t go well with Anna?
The realization of this simple event…my subconscious flooded to other areas to fuck with me. I realize that.
[takes a deep breath in real life]
Just breathe. That’s all I can do. Stoicism right here, enjoy what is happening. It’s funny because one of my affirmations is, “I find the joy in being single”. I was laughing, smiling, and acting normal after the “fall”. I potentially could have almost died and here I am worrying about women. Hey, the brain can’t tell. Getting let down by women and actually dying are the same thing because the same contraption in your brain is responsible for both of those things. It can’t tell the difference. Asking a girl out and falling and dying on a climb. Same thing.
I just needed to blog that. What an interesting experience.
Oh and also. Ama is back in my garage :). Everything will work out perfectly and it will continue to do so.